Emily stands on a bridge overlooking the Swallow's Grave portion of the Taroko Gorge.

Hualien – Taroko Gorge, Mukumuyu (Taiwan)

Emily stands on a bridge overlooking the Swallow's Grave portion of the Taroko Gorge.

Emily stands on a bridge overlooking the Swallow's Grave portion of the Taroko Gorge.

My trip out of Taipei and around the coasts of Taiwan has been nothing short of spectacular. From Hualien, with its amazing gorges, participating in various aboriginal festivals and dances, to Kenting with its breath taking east coast, Taiwan really has captured my heart.

Hualien, however, was one of the places where I stayed the longest and met the most people. Sunny and Gloria, from Colourful Taiwan Hostel, were awesome hosts with a wealth of information about Hualien and even spoke to me in Mandarin the whole time, being ever so patient when I struggled with my limited Mandarin vocabulary.

Taroko Gorge is on a "top ten list of places to see in the world" according to our guide.

Taroko Gorge is on a "top ten list of places to see in the world" according to our guide.

That in general, has been my experience with Taiwan. On one hand, I want to blend in and be local. On the other hand, as soon as people find out that you’re a “wai guo ren” (foreigner), they have awesome conversations with you.

Nine Turns Tunnel in the Tarako Gorge.

Nine Turns Tunnel in the Tarako Gorge.

Back to Hualien, I had the pleasure of Sam, Eva and Emily’s company. I had met the trio, also from Canada, only two nights before in Taipei. When we found out we were heading in the same direction, we decided to explore the Taroko Gorge together.

Eva and Sam on the suspension bridge at Tarako Gorge.

Eva and Sam on the suspension bridge at Tarako Gorge.

Taroko Gorge is definitely a beautiful nature reserve. Clear spring water provides sweet swimming opportunies for people looking to spend some time in this mountainous region.

Golden Buddha watches over Taroko Gorge.

Golden Buddha watches over Taroko Gorge.

As you walk through man made, hand chiseled walkways, you can’t help but admire at the beauty of mountanis touching the skies, shrouded amongst the clouds.

People jump and swim in crystal clear water at Mukumuyu.

People jump and swim in crystal clear water at Mukumuyu.

But for untouched beauty, you have to visit Mukumuyu. It is a very protected mountainous reserve much like the Taroko Gorge. The difference: only 300 people are allowed in before noon, and a further 300 people in the afternoon.

My scooter and I in the mountains on the very first day I rode. I probably last rode a two wheeled vehicle over 10 years ago.

My scooter and I in the mountains on the very first day I rode. I probably last rode a two wheeled vehicle over 10 years ago.

“Please don’t tell too many people about this place,” said Gloria. She was worried that it might become a touristy area much like the Taroko Gorge.

Four aboriginal girls, one from a different tribe.

Four aboriginal girls, one from a different tribe.

I also met and talked to my first “yuan zhu ming”. Or aboriginal people. I thought this was a cool picture as the girls each came from a different tribe. They asked for my facebook but I guess must have lost it as they haven’t added me. :( Sadly, I did not get their info in return.

Anatomy of a rockslide at Mukumuyu.

Anatomy of a rockslide at Mukumuyu.

Mukumuyu really is a much quiter, tranquil version of the Taroko Gorge, while the gorge has more geographic variety. I highly recommend both if you have the time.

Aboriginals from the Taroko tribe in Taiwan do a dance as part of their harvest festival.

Aboriginals from the Taroko tribe in Taiwan do a dance as part of their harvest festival.

While looking for the Mukumuyu entrance, I scooted around the base of the mountain and found many aboriginal dwellings. The next day, I dropped by again while heading to the Li Yu lake. This time, the whole community was in a church compound for a harvest festival.

The Taroko people do a stick dance during their harvest festival.

The Taroko people do a stick dance during their harvest festival.

I guess I was dark enough to be aboriginal as long as I didn’t open my mouth. Well, there were reporters around too, so I assume that they thought I was either reporter or aboriginal.

Aboriginal Taroko kids take part in a compeition, removing the husk from their harvest.

Aboriginal Taroko kids take part in a compeition, removing the husk from their harvest.

I love the festivals. Drums, dances, it all makes for a very upbeat and happy afternoon.

A deity in one of the Eight Immortal Caves. Ancient human inhabitants have been using the cave since the paleolithic ages.

A deity in one of the Eight Immortal Caves. Ancient human inhabitants have been using the cave since the paleolithic ages.

My trip that day took me pretty far south, as I also endevoured to reach the Eight Immortal Cave. These caves were carved by the sea through centuries and early inhabitants of the island then used them as a temple for their gods. Archeologists have discovered tools from the early paleolithic ages in the cave.

I had tea with a monk and another inhabitant of one of the Eight Immortal Caves.

I had tea with a monk and another inhabitant of one of the Eight Immortal Caves.

Instead of one cave per immortal, these caves contained many gods with only the highest cave housing the Eight Immortals. As I had arrived too late to see all the caves, I ended up joining this monk, and another layman who lived in the actual Eight Immortal Cave, for tea. The latter said that I resembled one of the immortals. Even these older folk were happy to hear I was “wai guo ren” and endeavored to have a conversation with me despite my atrocious Mandarin.

Shi Di Harbour at night.

Shi Di Harbour at night.

That night, I did not realize how far I had traveled as it would be a two hour scooter ride home, along the east coast and through the mountains. To compound the thrill of that evening, my scooter light switch had come loose and the light intermittently flickered on and off. Sometimes, I would be rounding the corner with no guardrail and the light suddenly went off. I am lucky I see pretty well in the dark!

Awesome bubble making device sold on the beaches of Hualien.

Awesome bubble making device sold on the beaches of Hualien.

The next day, I decided to take it easy and head to the beach. One of the toys they sold was an awesome bubble making device.

Fishermen sending out their little boat to bring in the catch from the ship.

Fishermen sending out their little boat to bring in the catch from the ship.

It was supposed to be a relaxing day on the beach. However, when I heard that the fishermen were bringing in their catch, it was a race to find out where.

Fishermen loading their catch on to the tractor.

Fishermen loading their catch on to the tractor.

It was quite the community event. People all flocked to the boats to watch them unload, then to the nearby market for some fresh fish.

Fishermen transport their fish (and boat) to the market where they immediately start selling fish.

Fishermen transport their fish (and boat) to the market where they immediately start selling fish.

Fish being gutted at the market.

Fish being gutted at the market.

Unfortunately, there was no “Man Bo” fish, a gigantic fish that they usually caught in the area. Still, it was interesting seeing how the fisheries operate here.

A wave, about four feet high, crashes onto shore near a couple of bystanders looking to catch the waves.

A wave, about four feet high, crashes onto shore near a couple of bystanders looking to catch the waves.

Many of the people come by the beach to catch the waves. these waves are HUGE. Some hit the shore at five feet high. This one in the picture is probably at about four feet.

A little kid runs from the waves. Some were over five feet high.

A little kid runs from the waves. Some were over five feet high.

I hope you enjoyed the pictures! This post was really picture intensive.

Trying to keep up with the blogging but it’s hard when you’re having a great time.

Now to check in. Heading to Hong Kong!

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  • Steph

    hey dan love this post. i’m inspired to travel alone now..

  • Emily

    Awesome pics! Brings back good memories :)